You Can Lock But Don't Touch

Photo-Flickr

Locking a bike is a necessary evil.  In a perfect world a lock would be useless, but alas, ours is not a perfect world.  So to help educate, I bring you a small guide to explain and show the proper, and the improper methods of bike locking.

At first I considered showing different levels of security and the multiple types of locks that can be used depending on locking needs.  Then I thought about how it doesn't seem to matter where you live anymore.  If someone wants Opey Taylors bike these days, they take it.  Even those with a state of the art Barney Fife security system installed on their bike, or how storybook perfect a town is, the threat exists.  

I give to you some examples of how not to lock your bike.  Normally logic or common sense would keep these methods from ever happening.  And yet here they are.

If you look at those photos and see nothing wrong, get some friends to look at them and explain it to you.  Attaching it to something that is solid, and continuous (not open ended) is important.  Making sure that it (the lock) goes around the frame at a point where it does not allow the lock to simply slide off or through the bikes frame.  Other than locking the frame, having the lock intersect both the frame and a wheel is even better.  That will protect the bike as a whole and one of its most desirable parts; wheels.

The best thing for a more complete coverage lock is to keep it indoors, but since that is not an option when you are out and about, locking has to be done to stop, or at least discourage a thief.   Locking it in plain site at a public place is a good idea.  That makes it hard for a thief to break out the tools and begin taking it apart around the lock, or to start cutting the lock.  Cutting off a lock in a busy public place is not impossible, but it is very discouraging to a thief.  Not every place of business has a designated bike rack, and even if they do, many are not very well made or secured to anything.  Pick something that has a good grip on a building or the ground.  Preferably concrete, steel, or a substantial structure that is as strong as or stronger than the frame of your bike.  Then make sure you have a good locking system.  

Photo-Chicago Bike Program

Note, I did not say "lock", but locking system... big difference. A simple chain on its own can be cut.  A U-lock is much more substantial and much harder to cut through.  Bigger or beefier is better.  Make sure it is large enough to span the inside of the inner triangle of your bike's frame, to the inside of one wheel, and deep enough to reach a locking point like a rack or pole.  A secondary layer of security involves a cable lock or chain lock.  Running the cable or chain lock through the frame, the U lock, the other wheel and possibly another pass around the locking point or structure.  It seems like a lot of work weaving another lock through your frame, but it is worth the effort to secure your investment and the inconvenience of losing a bike.

Lets review.  You need two things:  A U-lock, and a chain (or cable) lock.  Not a plastic bag, no duct tape, garden hose, nylons, bread ties, or rope.  It may cost more, but get a lock made for bicycle locking, and get a descent brand.  Any bike shop would be willing to help pick one out with you.  They are usually rubber or vinyl coated, and U-locks and chain is specially hardened to be more cut resistant.  An alternative to the chain is braided cable.  A good quality cable is harder to cut or break than chain since it requires a different tool than the one needed to cut a U-lock.  The U lock should also be of quality. Get one as thick and heavy as you can stand to carry on your bike.

Thieves do not just target stealing an entire bike.  They will just as happily take your wheels, or any other component that can be easily removed.  It is not practical to have a lock for every part of your bike, but it is a good idea to not make it any easier.  Facing the drive  side towards the rack or locking structure will make it difficult to access the majority of desirable parts a thief would want.  If you are leaving your bike for a long period of time, take off any bags or accessories that can be easily removed.  Keeping your bike set up simple is a big help.  If you use your bike for commuting to school or work, you do not need a full touring rig set-up.  That be a real pain to strip down and secure when locking it and leaving it for most of the day.  

Another anti theft technique is the bike itself.  The uglier the better.  There are some great old bikes out there that ride and work great but look like they crawled out of the county dump.  Thieves look for what can make them money, therefore a pile of rolling junk (or so it would appear) would not win a second glance.  My old Schwinn Varsity is a good example.  The paint is half gone, the components are thick with greasy dirt, and many of the parts of a rusty glow.  It rides a little heavy, but for in town errands, it is perfect.  With this old beast, I only wrap a cable lock around the front wheel and frame and skip the u-lock.  If it were a more expensive, rare, or new bike, that would not be the case.  

Sadly, this has to be a topic at all.  Bike thieves are not always "professionals", but range from desperate crooks, to kids looking for kicks.  It may not matter if you take every step possible to secure your bike, someone will find a way to steal it if they really want to.  The best that we can do is to discourage those that look for an easy opportunity.